Europe's largest International Dark Sky Reserve, Robert Louis Stevenson's real 1878 donkey-trek route through limestone plateaus, and river swimming in emerald gorges — the longest drive in the series, but a genuinely different world from anything closer to Paris.
The Parc National des Cévennes holds a status no other mainland French national park has: since 2018 (reconfirmed 2022) it's an International Dark Sky Reserve, and at nearly 3,600 km² across the Lozère, Gard, Ardèche and Aveyron départements it's the largest such reserve in Europe. The Mont Aigoual plateau (1,567m, topped by a working meteorological observatory open to visitors) gives a genuine 360° horizon for stargazing with almost no light pollution below it.
The base for this trip is Florac-Trois-Rivières (44.33°N, 3.59°E), the park's administrative capital, sitting where the Tarnon meets the Tarn at the foot of the Causse Méjean limestone plateau. It's also directly on the GR70 "Chemin de Stevenson" — the real 220km route Robert Louis Stevenson walked with his donkey Modestine in 1878 from Le Monastier-sur-Gazeille to Saint-Jean-du-Gard, later published as Travels with a Donkey in the Cévennes. The trail is a recognised European Cultural Route and still draws roughly 6,000 through-hikers a year — you'll walk a real section of it, not a replica.
Meudon-la-Forêt → Florac is roughly 638 km / ~7 hours of driving, mostly via A71/A75 (the A75 stretch alone is over 580km and crosses the Millau Viaduct). At a realistic 330–370 km per charge on a 97%-SOH Model Y Premium, this fits comfortably into a single mandatory Supercharger stop on the way down — plan on charging once, roughly around the Clermont-Ferrand/Issoire area near the halfway point, which leaves an easy remaining leg into Florac.
Long driving day — charge once around the Clermont-Ferrand/Issoire area near the halfway point, then continue on to Florac; Albaret-Sainte-Marie (or Aire de l'Aveyron near Millau if open) is there as an optional top-up near the end if you want more buffer before descending into Florac. Arrive evening, set up at a paid campsite to sleep properly before the trip's active days start.
The Causse Méjean is the classic Cévennes limestone plateau — huge, empty, wind-scoured, dotted with dry-stone shepherd huts (bergeries) and genuinely good gravel/dirt-road riding on old droving tracks. Ride out from Florac onto the causse, then drop down to the Belvédère des Vautours above the Gorges de la Jonte to watch the reintroduced griffon vultures wheeling over the cliffs. Swim in the Tarn back near Florac if it's hot.
Walk a stretch of the GR70 north out of Florac towards Cassagnas or Le Pont-de-Montvert (both real waypoints on Stevenson's actual 1878 itinerary) up onto the Mont Lozère massif. This is where the dark sky reserve is most dramatic — granite moorland with almost zero ambient light. Stay out for the stars.
Drive to Mont Aigoual (1,567m) via Meyrueis — the historic Climatographe observatory at the summit is open to visitors and gives the best 360° panorama in the park, over four départements on a clear day. Come back down via the Gorges du Tarn and stop at one of the river beaches for a swim: Castelbouc beach near Sainte-Énimie, Saint-Chély-du-Tarn, or the granite "natural bathtubs" at the Gouffre de l'Oule near Le Pont-de-Montvert are all genuine, named swimming spots on the Tarn.
Charge once near Clermont-Ferrand/Issoire on the way back north; Albaret-Sainte-Marie remains available as an optional top-up before leaving the area if you'd rather start the drive with more buffer.
The Causse Méjean's network of old droving and farm tracks is genuinely good gravel terrain — wide open limestone plateau, minimal traffic, and enough elevation change to make it interesting without technical singletrack. Bike loaded inside per the Car Camping & Bike Guide; there's no need for a rack even for a multi-day trip this long. Save the bike for the causse day rather than the GR70 hiking day — the Stevenson trail sections are foot-only.
| Category | Cost |
|---|---|
| Tolls (A71/A75, mostly free — A75 has almost no péage) | ≈ €10–20 |
| Charging (1 stop each way, ~1,276 km round trip) | ≈ €25–35 |
| Lodging (2–3 nights Camping Le Pont du Tarn + 1 free bivouac night) | ≈ €35–70 |
| Mont Aigoual observatory / Belvédère des Vautours entry | ≈ €6–8 |
| Food (self-cooked, most meals) | ≈ €35–45 |
| One local specialty meal (Cévenole trout, pélardon cheese, or aligot) | ≈ €18–25 |
| Total | €160–230 |