Dartmoor — Granite Tors, Wild Ponies & Real Wild Camping Rights

The one place in England where wild camping is a genuine, court-confirmed legal right — not a gentleman's tolerance like the Lake District. Add windswept granite tors, semi-wild ponies, and a real 3,300-year-old Bronze Age village, and it's a properly wild long weekend.

~710 km
One-way
5 days
Trip length
Legal
Wild camping (commons)
€360–520
Total budget

Why Dartmoor

Dartmoor is the closest genuinely wild upland in Britain to the Channel — 954 km² of open granite moorland, tors, mires and river valleys, roughly a third of it registered common land. Wild ponies roam freely across the commons (semi-feral herds owned by local "commoners" under ancient grazing rights), the skyline bristles with over 160 named granite tors, and the moor is scattered with genuinely one of the densest concentrations of Bronze Age archaeology in Europe — hut circles, stone rows and stone circles by the thousand. And crucially for this series: thanks to a real, high-profile court case that ran from 2023 to 2025, Dartmoor is now the only place in England where you can legally pitch a tent on open access land without asking anyone's permission.

Crossing to the UK

Eurotunnel Le Shuttle (Calais-Coquelles → Folkestone, ~35 min): dynamic, airline-style pricing — typically £70–120 (≈€80–140) one-way/return booked off-peak and ahead of time, rising to £200–300+ (≈€230–350) if booked last-minute in peak summer.
Alternative — DFDS/P&O ferry (Calais → Dover, ~90 min): usually cheaper, car fares commonly from around £40–100 one-way (≈€45–115), rising with demand and a slower crossing.

Sources: leshuttle.com, dfds.com, directferries.com — genuinely dynamic pricing, re-check before booking.

Driving in the UK

You drive on the LEFT from the moment you roll off the Shuttle or ferry in Kent. Take a few quiet minutes in the terminal car park before joining traffic.

This is a genuinely manageable UK trip by this series' standards: Meudon-la-Forêt to Calais is about 290 km, then the Shuttle, then Folkestone down to Princetown (the highest village on the moor, and the closest thing Dartmoor has to a central hub) is ≈ 262 miles / 422 km, roughly 4h45–5h of driving via the M20/M25/M3/A303/A30/A38 corridor — a route that mostly skirts London and never touches Scotland-length distances. All told, that's roughly 710 km and 8–9 hours of driving one-way from Calais, before the French leg — genuinely splittable into a single very long day, or more comfortably two.

Real Tesla Superchargers bracket the moor conveniently on both approach roads: Exeter, just off the M5 to the east (a natural top-up on the A30/A303 run in), and Plymouth, off the A38 to the southwest — meaning you can arrive with a healthy buffer and never need to charge on the moor's single-track lanes themselves. Given the Model Y's realistic ~330–370 km real-world range at 97% SOH, plan one mandatory Supercharger stop on the way down, around the Bristol/Somerset services on the M5 — that's roughly where a Model Y Premium needs to top up on this leg. Exeter or Plymouth then becomes an optional buffer stop before or after exploring, useful if you'd rather arrive with more margin rather than relying on the final stretch alone.

Sources: rome2rio.com (Folkestone–Princetown driving distance/time), standard M5/A30/A38 Tesla Supercharger network coverage.

Wild camping on Dartmoor — a real legal right, confirmed by the Supreme Court

This is genuinely different from every other English trip in this series. Elsewhere in England (see the Lake District writeup), wild camping has no legal basis at all — it's tolerated informally at best. Dartmoor is the sole exception, and the exception was fought over in court for two and a half years.

The timeline, confirmed: In January 2023, landowner Alexander Darwall won a High Court case arguing that the Dartmoor Commons Act 1985 did not give the public a right to pitch tents or camp overnight on Dartmoor commons without landowner consent — a ruling that triggered a major public protest led by storyteller Martin Shaw. Dartmoor National Park Authority appealed, and on 31 July 2023 the Court of Appeal overturned the High Court, ruling that the 1985 Act does include a right for the public to backpack-camp on the commons. The Darwalls were granted leave to take it to the Supreme Court — and on 21 May 2025, the Supreme Court upheld the Court of Appeal's decision, confirming for good that wild camping on Dartmoor's commons is a genuine, standing legal right.

What this actually means in practice: on the roughly 37% of Dartmoor registered as common land (most of the high, open moor — check the Dartmoor National Park Authority's backpack-camping map before you go, since some commons are excluded, e.g. near Okehampton and Willsworthy military ranges when live firing is scheduled), you can legally pitch a small backpacking tent for one or two nights without asking permission, under the same "leave no trace" backpack-camping code as always: small tent, away from roads/farms/livestock, arrive late, leave early, no fires, pack out everything. This is a genuine right — not an informal tolerance like the Lake District's high-fell exception.

Source: Wikipedia, "Dartmoor" (History section) — citing the January 2023 High Court judgment (Sir Julian Flaux), the 31 July 2023 Court of Appeal ruling, and the 21 May 2025 Supreme Court decision in Darwall v Dartmoor National Park Authority.

Day-by-Day

Day 1

Meudon-la-Forêt → Calais → Folkestone → Devon

~290 km to Calais, Shuttle crossing, then ~422 km into Devon

Early motorway run to Calais-Coquelles, load onto the Shuttle, remember to keep left. Push down through Kent and around London on the M25/M3, charging near Bristol/Somerset on the M5, then on into Devon. Overnight at a paid campsite near Postbridge or Two Bridges, or — if you arrive with daylight and energy — head straight for a first legal wild camp on one of the commons.

Day 2

Haytor — Dartmoor's most famous granite tor

~1.5 km round trip from the car park, 30–45 min, easy — a real, accessible SSSI
Haytor (457 m). The classic, easiest tor on Dartmoor to reach: a large free car park sits right below it off the B3387 near Haytor Vale, and the rock itself is a short, easy walk up worn granite steps first cut in the 19th century (steep near the top, but no technical climbing needed for the main summit). Simon Jenkins rated the view from here as one of the top ten in all of England — on a clear day you can see the coast toward Torquay and the Teign estuary. It's the classic "avenue tor" shape, protected as a Site of Special Scientific Interest, and genuinely Dartmoor's most photographed landmark.

Afternoon in nearby Bovey Tracey or Widecombe-in-the-Moor for the trip's one splurge: a proper Devon cream tea — scones, clotted cream (spread first, Devon-style, jam on top), and strawberry jam — typically £6–9 (≈€7–10) at a Dartmoor tea room. Watch for wild ponies grazing right along the roadside and on the open moor around Haytor Down — genuinely one of the most reliable places on the moor to see them.

Sources: Wikipedia "Haytor"; Wikipedia "Devon cream tea" (Devon-method serving order); standard Dartmoor tea-room pricing.

Day 3

Grimspound — real Bronze Age settlement, then a legal wild camp

~3 km round trip from Grimspound car park, easy-moderate, real Scheduled Monument
Grimspound. A genuine late Bronze Age settlement (first occupied around 1300 BC), sitting in the valley between Hameldown Tor and Hookney Tor, a few miles north of Widecombe-in-the-Moor. Twenty-four stone hut circles survive inside a massive granite perimeter wall — some huts still show their original L-shaped porches and paved doorways. It's free, open access land with no gate or ticket booth, reached via a short walk from the roadside car park; combine it with the short scramble up Hookney Tor above for the classic postcard view down onto the settlement.
This is the night to use Dartmoor's real legal right: pitch a small tent well up on the open common after your Grimspound walk, away from the settlement itself and any grazing stock, gone again by mid-morning. Unlike the Lake District's informal high-fell tolerance, this is a genuine legal right on Dartmoor's commons following the 2025 Supreme Court ruling — check the DNPA backpack-camping map first for any excluded areas (e.g. live-firing military ranges).

Sources: Wikipedia "Grimspound"; Dartmoor National Park Authority backpack camping guidance.

Day 4

Postbridge, the clapper bridge, bike ride, and the long drive home begins

Morning at Postbridge to see the genuine medieval clapper bridge over the East Dart River, then an easy bike ride along the quiet lanes and byways around Two Bridges — Dartmoor's gentler valleys are good, low-traffic riding between the wilder tor-bagging days. Charge at Exeter or Plymouth, then start the long haul back: Devon to the Midlands or the M25 corridor, splitting the return journey with one overnight if driving all in one go feels like too much.

Day 5

Home via Folkestone → Calais → Meudon-la-Forêt

~710 km total, reverse of Day 1

Finish the drive north to Folkestone, Shuttle or ferry back across the Channel, and the final run down to Meudon-la-Forêt.

Bike Notes

Dartmoor's open moor is mostly too rough and boggy for casual riding, but the quiet lanes around Postbridge, Two Bridges and Princetown, plus the old railway trackbeds (Princetown branch, and the Plym Valley further south), make for genuinely pleasant, low-traffic road and gravel riding between hikes. Bike loaded inside per the Car Camping & Bike Guide, no range penalty on the motorway legs.

💰 Budget (EUR / GBP, £1 ≈ €1.17)

CategoryCost
Charging (France + England, ~1,420 km round trip)≈ €70–100
French tolls (Meudon–Calais return)≈ €55–70
Eurotunnel Le Shuttle, return, booked ahead off-peak≈ £150–220 (≈ €175–260)
Lodging (1–2 free legal wild-camp nights on the commons, 1–2 nights paid campsite ≈£15–22/night)≈ €15–45
Devon cream tea splurge≈ £6–9 (≈ €7–10)
Haytor / Grimspound / Postbridge access€0 (free, open access land)
Food (self-cooked, ~5 days)≈ €50–70
Total€360–520

Ferry/tunnel and charging costs are genuinely dynamic — re-check nearer your travel dates. Rate used: £1 ≈ €1.17 (July 2026, approximate).