Parc National des Écrins — Glaciers, Refuges & Wild Bivouac

The wildest, least-touristed high-mountain range in the Alps: no ski-resort sprawl, no crowds — just chamois, ibex, golden eagles, and glaciers you hike to on foot. Base at Ailefroide / Vallouise-Pelvoux, in the Vallée de la Vallouise on the park's eastern edge.

≈555 km
One-way
1 stop
Supercharging (Grenoble)
3–4 nights
Trip length
€140–190
Total budget

Why the Écrins

Created in 1973, Parc National des Écrins is the largest national park in mainland France and one of the wildest in the entire Alpine arc — no lift-served glacier tourism, no Chamonix-style crowds, just 91,800 hectares of core "cœur" zone above roughly 1,600m: over 100 summits above 3,000m (the Barre des Écrins itself tops 4,102m), dozens of glaciers, and a genuinely intact large-mammal population — chamois, Alpine ibex (bouquetin), marmots everywhere, and golden eagles overhead. The classic access valleys are La Bérarde (deep in the Vénéon valley, only reachable via a long single-track road) and Vallouise/Ailefroide, the park's unofficial mountaineering capital with direct trail access to the Glacier Blanc and Glacier Noir beneath the Pelvoux and Écrins massifs.

Source: ecrins-parcnational.fr, Pays des Écrins tourist office.

Getting There & Charging

Meudon-la-Forêt → Ailefroide (05340, Vallouise-Pelvoux) is roughly 555 km, about 6.5–7 hours of driving via A6/A48 to Grenoble, then N85/D1091 up through Bourg-d'Oisans, over the Col du Lautaret (2,058m), down to Briançon and south into the Vallouise valley. With ~330–370 km of realistic range on this car, that's one charging stop needed each way.

Supercharger stop: Grenoble (Bernin), 134 Chemin des Fontaines — 8–16 stalls, up to 250 kW, roughly the halfway point of the drive and right on the A48 route. A second option exists further along at Gap (28 Boulevard d'Orient, Intermarché car park, 8 stalls, 250 kW, 24/7) if coming via the southern N85/A51 route through Gap instead of over the Lautaret.

Source: Tesla Grenoble Supercharger, Tesla Gap Supercharger, ViaMichelin routing.

Day-by-Day

Day 1 — Drive down

Meudon-la-Forêt → Grenoble (charge) → Ailefroide

≈555 km, ≈7h driving + 1 Supercharger stop

Long driving day. Charge at Bernin/Grenoble (30–40 min is plenty on a Model Y Premium pack), then continue over the Col du Lautaret — worth a short stop at the summit's alpine botanical garden, which looks straight across at the La Meije glacier. Arrive Ailefroide by evening and set up at the campsite.

Paid fallback: Camping d'Ailefroide (Camping Municipal), 3405 Route d'Ailefroide — 400 pitches inside the park boundary, no reservation needed, open 1 May–1 Nov, ≈€15/night for 2 adults + van. Basic but right at the trailheads.
Day 2 — Glacier Blanc

Pré de Madame Carle → Refuge du Glacier Blanc

≈10 km round trip, ~1,000m gain, full day

Drive up to the Pré de Madame Carle car park (the road's end, and as far as any car — Tesla included — can go), then hike alongside the Glacier Blanc torrent past Lac Tuckett to the Refuge du Glacier Blanc at 2,542m, with the Barre des Écrins, Pelvoux and Ailefroide peaks framing the ice. One of the most accessible real glacier views in the Alps without a lift or via ferrata.

Refuge du Glacier Blanc prices (2025–26, FFCAM-run, guardianed late March–20 Sept): dorm night only ≈€25 (non-member) / €12.50 (FFCAM member); dinner €30, breakfast €10, packed lunch €15. Out of season (unguardianed) a self-service night is €8.
Bivouac option instead of hiking back down: tents/bivy bags are tolerated right around the refuge and elsewhere in the park's cœur (core) zone, but only under the national park's bivouac rule — see below.
Day 3 — Vallée de la Vallouise / rest day

Easy valley walk, village of Vallouise, or bike ride

A gentler day: wander the old villages of Vallouise and Pelvoux (frescoed chapels, Ubaye-style stone houses), or take an easy valley walk toward the Glacier Noir viewpoint (moraine views without the full glacier trek). Good day to treat yourself to the local specialty — see budget below.

Day 4 — Drive home

Ailefroide → Grenoble (charge) → Meudon-la-Forêt

≈555 km, ≈7h + 1 charging stop

Retrace the route over the Lautaret, charge again at Grenoble, home by evening.

Wild Bivouac Rules — Read This Before You Camp

Car-camping is NOT allowed inside the park's cœur (core) zone. The core is marked by painted blue-white-red flags on rocks and starts well above the valley floor — vehicles stay on public roads and in car parks like Pré de Madame Carle.
Bivouac (tent/bivy bag on foot) IS tolerated in the cœur zone, under real conditions: only between 7pm and 9am, and only more than one hour's walk from the nearest road access. No fires, no dogs (even on a leash), nothing picked or removed (plants, minerals, fossils), and all waste packed out. This is the standard rule across French national parks' core zones, and it applies around Glacier Blanc and throughout the high Vallouise/Vénéon valleys.

Source: Parc national des Écrins — Refuge du Glacier Blanc, Destination Écrins trek page.

Bike Notes

Bike loaded inside per the Car Camping & Bike Guide — no penalty, no rack. The Col du Lautaret (2,058m) you'll drive over anyway is a genuine Tour de France climb: from Le Clapier it's ≈34 km at an average 3.8% (1,312m of vertical gain), rated one of the gentler ways to break 2,000m, with a road continuation up to the harder Col du Galibier (8.7 km at 6.9% beyond Lautaret) if you want to push further. Do it as a standalone morning ride from Ailefroide/Briançon rather than combining it with the drive.

Source: PJAMM Cycling — Col du Lautaret, Wikipedia.

💰 Budget

CategoryCost
Tolls (A6/A48, partial)≈ €25–35
Supercharging (2 stops round trip)≈ €25–35
Lodging: 3 nights Camping d'Ailefroide (≈€15/night)≈ €45
Refuge du Glacier Blanc treat night (dorm + dinner + breakfast)≈ €65
Food (self-cooked, remaining days)≈ €25–30
Total€140–190

Skip the refuge night and bivouac instead (respecting the 7pm–9am / 1hr-from-road rule) to cut ≈€65 and land closer to €80–120 total.